


Two Temples
Habitual critter that I am, I enjoyed these Korean Buddhist temples first and only later came to appreciate their history. Both straddle Expressway #1 running through the southeastern city of Yangsan and can be explored in a day. The larger, … Continue reading Two Temples

Gallus God Domesticus
Come 5 and half I wonder white or dark, of which I’m fonder Fowl thoughts, they’re spring loaded the dripping habit of a life-long tongue that never cared why your sky was falling why you crossed the road at broiler weight Plucked and bronzed, potatoes on my weight was what I wanted I’m ashamed but to ab-stain? I tried but you roasted, fried, is a siren’s song and I’m forever on the rocks. Continue reading Gallus God Domesticus

Winwood Two

Winwood

Gamcheon
About as vibrant a place as you’ll find in Korea before the sun drops and the neon’s plugged in. Gamcheon Cultural Village sits in the hills beyond Nampo-dong in the Saha district. Cramped, boxy and playful, its cafes and artisan … Continue reading Gamcheon

Seoraksan, Day 1
I’ve seen two moods of Seoraksan, grey and sun-drenched. The first of my three-day visit to this northeastern national park had coolish hiking air and mist in the peaks while the second and final were blue-skied and bright. It’s hard … Continue reading Seoraksan, Day 1

Seoraksan, Day 2
I caught up with two Busan friends and their mother/mother-in-law on Day Two, where the cable car climbs 670 meters up Seorak Mountain. Once you exit, it’s a simple walk to Gwongeumseong Fortress. Website after website mentions “fortress ruins,” which … Continue reading Seoraksan, Day 2

Seoraksan, Day 3
Day Three should have been more strenuous than it was. First I ambled through Sinheungsa, a Buddhist temple of the Jogye Order. The layout will be familiar to visitors of other Korean temples: the brilliantly fierce Four Heavenly Kings, the … Continue reading Seoraksan, Day 3

Gijang
I’ve been nurturing a new habit, nursing it, even closer to forcing it. I’ve spent too many weekends in cafes and movie houses and not enough time seeing the country. On this day, I took a half-hour subway ride to … Continue reading Gijang